We have snow for days right now. We were already on a solid 65 inch base and probs caught 12-13 yesterday and 2-3 more already today with a foot expected through Monday.


Deer Valley was fantastic as well. 10-12" of super light powder. Enjoy the rest of your trip here in PC.GarlandAg2012 said:
Great Powder day in Park City today. Something like 10" overnight. First successful shrub and bowl runs. Legs on fire. Time for the hot tub.
For anyone looking to buy boots, I agree with JustPanda about Surefoot. The Surefoot set up is expensive, but worth every penny.JustPanda said:
You can have the liner shaved and the boot punched to fit your foot better once you have them on and knock out a couple runs. Usually takes an overnight for each adjustment

JustPanda said:
Losing toe nails is a sign of too much space in the insole between the end of the hard shell and the insole toe bed. The sliding of the toes forward and back against the toe of the boot when in an extended and steeper grades results in a lot of weight being transferred along the top of the foot and into the toes. Probs needed a smaller hard shell and a better fitting insole. Teching a boot is an art and once you shave out liner, it's gone forever.
Another thing for people to remember - the second and third ratchets are the important ones on your boots. The second from the top keeps your heel engaged and pushed back and the top of the foot (3rd from top) holds your foot down and engaged into the foot bed. Between those two, if you toes are touching the end of the boot, once engaged on the hill, you'll be in a performance fit. I fix them down as tight as I can get them and often that means re-tightening once the boots fully buckled.
You do not want to over strap tighten the top buckle. You want it comfortably flush along the calf but not squeezing the calf. When skiers have their toes go numb or "freezing cold", it's usually from cutting off blood flow to the feet via over tightening the top buckle.
I always recommend sizing down on hard sheets especially if you can maintain equivalent insole length. For example, I size at 26.5 and ski a 24.5. I don't want any motion inside the boot that isn't true. It help you embody the cognition between your mind and limbs without delay or error. Smaller boots often are also lighter and shorter along the shin. So if you have hot spots form on the shin (shin bang) or along the ankle, sizing down on the hard shell can help distribute the weight inside the boot into different spaces and counter-intuitively make a significant difference. Space inside a ski boot feels great at the base but wrecks havoc once on a decent grade.
JustPanda said:
Usually the buckle will either spin and grow a little or the little teeth where the latch hits the boot will grow and you can move them towards the latch if you push on one side (usually the outside boot side but not always). I wish I knew how to post pictures.

JustPanda said:
What about the little teeth on the shin? Does it have the ability to extend closer to the latch?









