The previous homeowner put in this section of concrete in the garage and I need to take it up to make room for a longer vehicle. I've never attempted something like this and would be interested to know what tool you all would recommend for the job.

Here are a few pictures and the options at HD. I'm leaning towards the Hilti Pro.

Those are what a crew used to trench my slab to move a drain so they'll do the job. How are you going to prevent damaging the slab underneath?

Assuming it's a cold bond and will just come off clean I guess.

Edit: wonder if you could lay the tool on the ground and come at it from the end

Your edit came to mind. It's 3" thick so I was going to eyeball down 1-2" and figure out how to get the last inch very carefully. Potentially hammer and crowbar but I'm open to suggestions.

The rent demolition hammers too and that may be a better way to go to avoid going through the slab

We've never had a water migration issue in the garage during any of the storms over the last 3 years. Our lot is really well graded.

The only thing I can think of is they didn't own large SUVs or trucks and wanted the extra space.

Edit: the water heater is in its usual spot against the sheet rock as well so I can't imagine that was a factor.

Since you believe the previous owner added it, it's unlikely it's tied into the slab below. Probably only reinforced with wire mesh, if at all. You could score it with a concrete saw so it breaks out more cleanly, though that's going to add effort and money.

I've used the 32lb one in the middle to trench 4" slab, it's the one I recommend. It doesn't look like your area is thick enough to need a heavier one.

Assuming it's not tied into to the base, you'll still probably chip pieces out of the base slab. You'll just have to patch the chips. Just remember to use a bonding agent so the repairs dont come out

Either of you think the 20# demo hammer could also be sufficient? Or most likely not enough?

The more I think about this the more I worry about accidentally misjudging the depth and clipping a post tension cable.

My bet is it was added later for sure. It should easily break up. I would guess they just used sackcrete to pour it. You could try to cut sections but I think best to get a flat bit for the breaker and come at it from the edge. It should just pop up and break into pieces, that way you should not damage original slab. I would go with a smaller breaker.

This was absolutely added after the initial pour. There is a very obvious caulk line between the original curb and this portion. The parents let the kids do handprints/initials so you're thinking along the same lines as me.

Best answer IMHO, beat me to my offering
https://rebrand.ly/ac9128
rubber curb ramps, EZPZ
Betting a better price & product is out there.

Anyone still use the ceiling hung tennis ball as a windshield STOP point anymore?

BTW when designing a New House, many of us don't use curb drop wheel stops anymore although we have to point this out to foundation structural engineers "old school" be they really older or just novices:
1. for the reason mentioned
2. for party overflows, fewer trip/falls
3. EZ in-out garbage/luggage/other on wheels
We substitute a line noted as Begin Slope (to OH door as per CODE)

Damn, I'm surprised it went that quick with the light hammer. Also surprised to see some legit dowels in there!

The vertical came out easy. Tied onto the horizontal.

Corps_Ag12 said:

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Aggietaco said:

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Damn, I'm surprised it went that quick with the light hammer. Also surprised to see some legit dowels in there!

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Horizontal dowels, but no vertical dowels lol

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I mean, for just an extended parking stop, I probably would have skipped any dowels all together. It's not like that pad was going to lift off the slab anyway.