I posted this in the food forum as well, but thought I would share my thoughts based on extensive NOLA experience and having been there just this past weekend.
To sum up advice to the rookie NOLA visitor with youngish kids, I would say don't skip the quarter but don't stay there for now or spend much time there in the evening, and avoid some of the areas I've described below completely. The kids will enjoy the Jackson square street performers during the day, and there should be enough people around, especially on the weekend, that you will feel safe.
More advice for youngish kids: WW2 museum is a must. Sleep in the CBD/warehouse district closer to the museum and you can walk to it, and you can catch a streetcar closer to the quarter or into the garden district which the kids would find fun. The above ground cemeteries are something my kids thought was cool at that age, and there is a great one next to commander's palace which I would recommend for jazz brunch if your kids can sit thru a nice meal and dress up a bit. The roving jazz trios in the dining rooms keeps it interesting for the kids.
As to my observations from just having been there this weekend:
I've been to NOLA probably 15-20 times, but this past weekend coming back from Florida was the sketchiest it ever felt to me. To put this in perspective, I typically embrace everything about NOLA, the good, the bad, and the ugly/smelly. And we spent several days there within 6 months of Katrina.
CoVID has not been good to the quarter from what I've seen. First, the mask paranoia is much more palpable there right now than anywhere I've been since Boston this past summer. It was a noticeable difference from TX or anywhere else on the gulf coast.
But the bigger difference, and I don't know how much this might have been due to being much cooler weather than expected or what, was that there were more homeless per capita than I've ever seen, both because there were more homeless and less tourists/non-homeless than I expected.
We ate dinner at Adolfo's which I highly recommend if you can get in. It's small, neighborhoody and they might take your attempt to make a reservation by text, or you might have to hang out in the downstairs bar for an hour or two if there are seats available. Great seafood with an Italian/Cajun spin.
Adolfo's is in Fauborg Marigny (residential neighborhood plus great jazz on Frenchmen St, adjacent to the quarter) so we walked there a little before dusk, passing by Jackson Sq to Esplanade on Decatur. That area of the quarter has generally been going a little downhill the last few times I've been there, but it was essentially only homeless people and more than half of the businesses after you got past a hundred yards or less from Cafe du Monde were boarded up. It honestly looked like that section of the quarter has basically been given up on.
To add insult to injury, to all the people who were waiting in the long lines to get into cafe du Monde, the prime live music area next to the cafe had been taken over by one of the "homeless bands." Instead of the itinerant musicians who normally play there, who can be quite talented and are always at least organized and entetrtaining, the homeless bands are led by a guy or two with a modicum of musical ability and several guys who have been handed instruments and told to blow loudly. It was a cacophony of sounds and ruined those folks' Cafe du Monde experience.
It seems to me that the sole proprietor type restaurants and shops in the quarter have taken a big hit, resulting in more homeless encroachment into the quarter. It also appeared that the chains are continuing to push in from Canal a bit, so the character of the quarter is being squeezed on two fronts.
With more hotels and restaurants popping up in the CBD/Warehouse district every year, I hope this isn't a long term trend the quarter can't bounce back from.
I appreciate uptown and the garden district, and the CBD certainly has plenty of good hotel choices and increasingly good dining options, and I enjoy my time in those areas, but the quarter is what makes New Orleans truly unique among US cities IMO. Having traveled to San Francisco fairly recently as well, I hate to see two of my favorite cities struggling with some of the same issues.
The next morning it wasn't as bad, with more tourists to cover up and/or push out the homeless. So maybe my observations are skewed by time and place, a cool evening in that particular part of the quarter. Cafe du Monde was back to a good group of musicians outside the next morning, and the line was longer than I've ever seen it. While it's a tradition, that length of wait was crazy so we skipped it. Pro tip which I don't know if it is available in CoVID times anymore: you can get your latte and beignets thru the to-go line and grab a seat somewhere and still get pretty much the same ambiance.
I just remember being a poor broke college student and being able to live on mudbugs, red beans and rice, and Gator sausage from the French market, drinking a beer and sitting right on the sidewalk without any concerns or issues. It was always an interesting mix of folks, but felt safe and way less sketchy. NOLA has been through a lot in recent years, and I hope the trend in the quarter is reversible.