St John (St. Thomas)

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Legend
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I've read a bunch of old threads on the USVI, but wanted to see if I could get some advice...

Thinking of a USVI trip this summer. Hawaii is more expensive and Europe seems too risky as to what travel status will be this summer. USVI seems the safest Covid (not within the 50 states) travel play right now (so the "go to Cayman or BVI instead" people can hold off chiming in!).

Seems like St. John is more our speed than St. Thomas based on what I've read in older threads. It will be me, my wife and two teenagers. Question is would you stay at a villa at the Westin or rent a separate house/villa through airbnb or VRBO? The rentals look amazing, but they all seem to be up in the hills with small pools and amazing views, but no beach access.

If you would rent, what side of the island and where? I see some of the reviews say "only 15-20 minute drive to the beach". Personally, I think that is a little far for us. I don't mind 5, maybe 10 minutes but I'm not keen to drive 20 minutes plus to the beach every time I want to see the water. That makes me think Westin might be better. But, I'm struggling coming up with a clear answer because the rental houses seem great. Is there a place where the beach is easily accessible? What are the best beaches?

Thanks!

Potcake
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Wife and I have stayed on VG in the BVI four times and twice on St. John. We always get a villa and two of the VG rentals were a minute walk to beach. We actually prefer the views from up high. A 10-30 minute drive to beach is not a deal-killer because there are so many beaches unless you just want to go to the same one every day.
For St. John, our first trip we stayed in Coral Bay and had great views of the bay and several BVI. The second trip we stayed in Fish Bay, about 10 minute drive to Cruz Bay.
Yes, staying up on the hills you have to deal with tight switchbacks but I think you will be spending more time at villa than you realize. The breezes are much better too so fewer bugs.

ETA, STJ is on our short list for retirement in 4-5 years.
maroonpivo
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We went a few years back and stayed in a rental just up the hill from town, was very affordable with own pool too.

The beauty of St, John is the ability to visit several beaches so us not staying beach front never bothered us. Rent a Jeep, leave in the morning and you'll be back in your rental to clean up for dinner. We drove to two different beaches a day. We had friends there at the same time as us that stayed at Caneel Bay and they stayed there the entire time, they definitely missed out on the wide range of beaches.

Was a fantastic trip! I also recommend a snorkel tour to the Baths.
maverick12
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St John is our favorite, so we've done quite a few trips over the years. It's really about exploring the huge number of amazing beaches so renting a Jeep is pretty much essential. The beach at the Westin is manmade and isn't especially nice. Also, it's at the back of a harbor so the water is relative stagnate. The resort does appear to be reasonably well kept though.

In my opinion, the optimal location is a villa on Great Cruz Bay that has a view of the sunset and St. Thomas. After a spending a day exploring, it's nice to come back to the villa pool and enjoy a frozen cocktail, or two while watching the boat traffic and the sunset before cleaning up for dinner. Another good thing about Great Cruz Bay is the proximity to Cruz Bay which is where most of the dinning options are.

You can read up on all the beaches and snorkeling options. There are many (admittedly pretty much all of them a drive). I will say that while Maho Bay used to be one of our favorites, they commercialized it a little too much when they rebuilt after the hurricanes. Plus, all the cool palm trees are gone. Hawksnest is still awesome though. When we were there late summer, we didn't a day charter around the island which included several hours at Lime Out (basically, a floating taco boat with awesome craft cocktails). I would also highly recommend day trips to The Baths and another to the Soggy Dollar (especially the Soggy Dollar!) if BVI is accepting visitors again. Unfortunately, they weren't last summer.

As a final thing, some people really like staying in Coral Bay. It's a decent drive from Cruz Bay though and is a little more limited in bars and restaurants so we've never stayed on that end. It may be something you'd like to consider though. Also, there is quite a bit of good information on the Trip Advisor St. John, USVI and BVI forums if you have been there. Good luck!

The Lost
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Make sure to read the hotel reviews to see how they're doing with COVID stuff. We debated going to USVI but all the reviews were meh at best. Sounded like some areas still recovering from a past hurricane too.

Not saying dont go, this was Marriott properties specifically, but def do your current research.
maverick12
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The Lost said:

Make sure to read the hotel reviews to see how they're doing with COVID stuff. We debated going to USVI but all the reviews were meh at best. Sounded like some areas still recovering from a past hurricane too.

Not saying dont go, this was Marriott properties specifically, but def do your current research.


The only thing I recall that wasn't pretty much fully recovered and reopened after the hurricanes when we were there in July was Caneel Bay and it will likely not reopen from what I understand due to issues not associated with the hurricanes.
sushi94
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If you want a nice beach - the same beach every day then don't go to St. John just go to Destin.

St. John was amazing - different beach every day all less than 15 minute drive.

Even if you'd rather stay at the Westin - there is a bus that will take you to different beaches.

Renting a Jeep and driving to the "villa" was fun for everyone - some roads get a bit "western".

Definitely one place we would consider buying a vacation home.
Legend
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Thank you for all the helpful information everyone.
Is the consensus just to skip St Thomas completely (other than the airport)?
Potcake
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I can't speak to STT as we've never stayed there, just flown in and out three times.

ETA, we have some friends who spend a couple of nights at Olga's Fancy on the back end of trips.
sushi94
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If it's between those. IMO stay on St. John and visit St.Thomas. St thomas has more shopping. Zip lines etc if you need a break from beaches. That's what we did.
Big Al 1992
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STT is crowded and busy and because it's bigger, takes a while to get from place to place. Water Island is worth a visit if you're staying in STT. If you want to explore now would be the time to do so since there are no cruise ships. STT when the boats dock - sometimes 6-7 a day - is not ideal.
And yes spend most of your time - if not all - in STJ. We stayed at Grande Bay Villas - steps away from central Cruz Bay - can walk to all the restaurants and bars. Rent a Jeep - we used Slim Man - and drive to the North Beaches, hike and snorkel, then spend some time around Coral Bay. Even though you can't go to BVIs now, lots of charter options. We loved Island Roots. We've also used Calypso/Bad Kitty if you'd rather sail. As it gets closer you can DM me for specifics - STJ is our favorite.
Potcake
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The BVI are open but the hoops are more stringent than the USVI and probably not worth it right now. Negative PCR test within five days of arriving, trst upon arrival, four day quarantine, another test, a Covid fee, and a tracking bracelet.
GigEm81
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Regarding St. John, just stay in the hills above Cruz Bay (great views of the harbor), rent a jeep and go to the north shore beaches-10-15 minute drive. We just go to whichever beach is least crowded. Snorkel from the beach.

Great to go to Coral Bay to explore and there are some good restaurants, but more happening in Cruz Bay.

Unless you are staying more than 10 days I would not try to split time with St. Thomas (though it is a very nice and interesting island in it's own right with great beaches). I would want to avoid crowds in covid times and that is more easily done on St. John.

I do love to go to Jost Van Dyke on a day sail. I think it better to Ferry to JVD early though and spend the day at White Bay (where Soggy Dollar is). Excellent beach and great people watching. It is a bit of a hassle going to JVD though since that is BVI, as are The Baths (a much longer trip to Virgin Gorda). So check their Covid restrictions and rules if you wish to go that way.

Great trip to do!
Big Al 1992
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Potcake said:

The BVI are open but the hoops are more stringent than the USVI and probably not worth it right now. Negative PCR test within five days of arriving, trst upon arrival, four day quarantine, another test, a Covid fee, and a tracking bracelet.


Yes the hoops are ridiculous. And day charters aren't allowed at all.
ChickenAndWafflesAg
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We are actually in St John right now. We have at timeshare at the Westin so I can only give you advice on staying here since we have never rented a house.
Pros to the Westin - family friendly, beach and pool access, easy, clean. The Westin has their own ferry from Red Hook in St. Thomas which is nice - you don't have to take the public ferry and deal hauling your luggage around.
Cons - beach is average to below average.

As far as renting a house you do need to be aware of the very steep and narrow driveways getting to most of them.

We always rent a jeep and explore a different beach or two everyday. Lots of great hikes to do too. Most beaches are a short, medium, or long drive. Example - Salt Pond beach is on the East side of the island just past Coral Bay. Coral Bay is about a 25 min drive and Salt Pond is probably 10-15min past there. But it is well worth the drive. Get there early and set up your chairs then do the Ram's Head hike. On the way home stop in Coral Bay at Skinny Legs for a late lunch. Or Honeymoon beach is only 10 min from the Westin.

St John is a great island if you like exploring new beaches. If you prefer to plop down you can do that at the Westin but would really be a waist of St John (Like a poster above said - if you prefer plopping down just go to Destin).

Personally I would not stay in St. Thomas. FYI - they are still not letting visitors into the BVI via boats yet.

Feel free to DM if you have any question
Legend
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Thanks for the info. Have a good time while you are there!
Red Pear Realty
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We were just there. Love those islands. Sad we couldn't make it to Jost, but next time will work.





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Keeper of The Spirits
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I am now day dreaming about my happy place the Cooper Island Beach Club
Big Al 1992
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Make sure you head up to Windmill Bar - best views of the island, fun crowd.
ChickenAndWafflesAg
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SoupNazi2001 said:

ChickenAndWafflesAg said:

We are actually in St John right now. We have at timeshare at the Westin so I can only give you advice on staying here since we have never rented a house.
Pros to the Westin - family friendly, beach and pool access, easy, clean. The Westin has their own ferry from Red Hook in St. Thomas which is nice - you don't have to take the public ferry and deal hauling your luggage around.
Cons - beach is average to below average.

As far as renting a house you do need to be aware of the very steep and narrow driveways getting to most of them.

We always rent a jeep and explore a different beach or two everyday. Lots of great hikes to do too. Most beaches are a short, medium, or long drive. Example - Salt Pond beach is on the East side of the island just past Coral Bay. Coral Bay is about a 25 min drive and Salt Pond is probably 10-15min past there. But it is well worth the drive. Get there early and set up your chairs then do the Ram's Head hike. On the way home stop in Coral Bay at Skinny Legs for a late lunch. Or Honeymoon beach is only 10 min from the Westin.

St John is a great island if you like exploring new beaches. If you prefer to plop down you can do that at the Westin but would really be a waist of St John (Like a poster above said - if you prefer plopping down just go to Destin).

Personally I would not stay in St. Thomas. FYI - they are still not letting visitors into the BVI via boats yet.

Feel free to DM if you have any question


Why is the beach not good at the Westin? If you go to different beaches are there chair/umbrella rental people there or do you have to bring your own stuff? Anyone dive down there? With who and how is it?
I wouldn't say the Westin is not good it's just that there are so many other better beaches to explore. That said the Westin beach is a man made beach and very very calm. It is a decent beach to hang out at but personally I wouldn't want to do it every day. We rent beach chairs from Just Beach in Mongoose Junction and take those around with us. I think you might can rent from the Westin too. We also bring a small tarp and bungee cords for shade if needed (bring this from home). There are probably umbrellas you can rent we just haven't done that. There might be diving here but from what I've heard the better diving is at St. Croix.
ChickenAndWafflesAg
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Thanks for the recommendation! We went there today and it was amazing. Have never been there before. Always something new to experience here.
OilManAg91
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I was considering going to St. John in April, but it looks like I may not be able to make it until end of June to first half of July. Has anyone been during this time and if so how is the weather? Will it be like a Houston hot, humid summer day, or have more of an island breeze? I've checked the weather sites and July average high is 90 compared to 86 in May so that doesn't too bad. I'm not too worried about hurricanes that early in the season, but if the weather is hot and still with mosquitos that doesn't sound like a great vacation. Any insight you can provide is appreciated!
Red Pear Realty
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I took these of the Westin with my drone from our Villa on the last day of our trip (not at the Westin, but we've stayed there before). The Westin is nice, but we probably wouldn't go to St John if everything on the island was that vibe. Something like 75% of the island is national park so it's pretty untouched. Westin resort kind of doesn't mesh with that.





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Red Pear Realty
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Yes, it will be hot and humid but if you are in the water or on a boat it won't matter. If you've never been before. I'd wait until Covid is over so you can go to the BVIs.
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maverick12
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Most of the villas, at least all the ones we have done, have had beach chairs and a cooler available for use.

In terms of summer temperatures, it is warmer in the summer, but it has never seemed exceptionally hot due to the trade winds.
Waiting on a Natty
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We have been to St. John over July 4. Under normal circumstances they have a GREAT July 4 parade--with a weird vib--and the best fireworks show we have ever seen. It makes the fireworks show at DisneyLand look like a small town $2000 show. And I am from a small town.

The best beaches and snorkeling we have ever seen. It is one of our favorite places in the world to go. Some pretty good places to eat in Cruz Bay with good burger type places in Coral Bay.
Legend
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Thanks guys. I'm trying a place close to Fish bay that is 10-15 minutes from Cruz bay. Appreciate all the advice.
Potcake
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What is the name, we stayed at a vila overlooking Fish Bay in December 2019?
Legend
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Potcake said:

What is the name, we stayed at a vila overlooking Fish Bay in December 2019?

South shore villa
Big Al 1992
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This place? Villa Cin Cin - only $30K a week! It's in Fish Bay/Ditlef Bay. Great snorkeling in that bay - lots of sea stars and turtles.
AgCPA95
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My wife and I stayed at Ginger Thomas this past December with another couple.
Ginger Thomas - St Johns

Great views and house worked out great. Had breakfast out on the patio every morning and then would head out in our Jeep each day for some different hikes and beaches. Would take some snacks and drinks depending where we were headed as a places had food and drink on site. Dolphin market is right at the bottom of the hill in town was handy for groceries and then we hit places in town for dinner each night Make reservations as places get full with limited seating due to covid.

For dinner we enjoyed Banana Deck and La Tapa the most, but also ate & drank at The Beach Bar, Longboard, Woodies and Tap & Still.

Grab you a sandwich (preferably the Pirate Piggy) to-go from North Shore Deli for a lunch on one of your beach trips.

jpb1999
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What is the easiest way to get from St Thomas to St John? If we go it would be 4 of us, my wife and I and a 6 and 8 year old. Is it easier to rent a jeep in StT abd ferry over or rent one once on StJ?

What are prices line between a private water taxi vs a group passenger ferry.

Besides beaches and snorkeling, what other can't miss things are there to do, especially with kids?

How safe is the island? Been to St Croix 20 years or so back, and while it is plenty safe in most places, it's not really somewhere I would want to take my you g kids to. Of course if you stay near resorts, etc it's fine, but I like to get off the beaten path. Are the hikes safe in StJ? What about being out at night at restaurants then driving home? Would be staying at a house probably.

One last question; what is the easiest flight combo to get to StT from Central Texas? Least amount of connectors.

Thanks to all!!
_________________________________________

Spane Bohem


AgCPA95
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jpb1999 said:

What is the easiest way to get from St Thomas to St John? If we go it would be 4 of us, my wife and I and a 6 and 8 year old. Is it easier to rent a jeep in StT abd ferry over or rent one once on StJ?

What are prices line between a private water taxi vs a group passenger ferry.

Besides beaches and snorkeling, what other can't miss things are there to do, especially with kids?

How safe is the island? Been to St Croix 20 years or so back, and while it is plenty safe in most places, it's not really somewhere I would want to take my you g kids to. Of course if you stay near resorts, etc it's fine, but I like to get off the beaten path. Are the hikes safe in StJ? What about being out at night at restaurants then driving home? Would be staying at a house probably.

One last question; what is the easiest flight combo to get to StT from Central Texas? Least amount of connectors.

Thanks to all!!

We rented jeep at the airport and did the car ferry. We didn't have kids on this trip, but traveled with ours many times at that age and would recommend rental at the airport. We rented from Amalie and had a like new 4 door Jeep that was great.

The ferry is about $25 one-way. You pay once you are on-board. You can do a round trip and save a few bucks, but you must return on the same ferry line. This could have been an issue for us having to leave very early on the first boat on our return trip home so we just did one way each time.

I never at one time felt unsafe in St. John that I remember. We saw very few people on most hikes but when we did was a mix of other couples or some families.

United has non-stop service to St Thomas so you should be able to one stop it from Austin.
maverick12
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There are advantages to each, but our preference has always been to take the ferry from STT to SJ and rent a Jeep on SJ. For one thing, the passenger ferry has a more robust schedule than the car ferries in case you are delayed for whatever reason. Pretty much all of the SJ Jeep rental companies are within a reasonably short walk of the passenger ferry dock. Someone can wait with the bags at the dock while someone goes and gets the Jeep. It's pretty easy and straightforward. Another advantage is most of the SJ rental companies allow you to park in their lots for free which is a nice option during peak times of the year.

Some prefer to rent in ST. The advantages are little less bag shuffling and the ability to stop along the way to pick up cheaper provisions before catching the ferry to SJ. We've never used them, but I've seen a positive things about Amalie Car Rental.

We usually arrange to have our villa provisioned ahead of time so we don't have to do that when we arrive. The provisioning company we used was very accommodating in filling our specific order (both liquor and food). It's a lot nicer to enjoy a cocktail at your villa as soon as you arrive than shopping with a tired people.

I consider the Soggy Dollar Bar and The Baths (both in BVI) as can't miss if BVI is reopen when you are visiting. Both require either a private, or group charter (and a passport). There are also some sugar mill ruins. I wouldn't say they are can't miss, but our kids enjoyed exploring them when they were young. Ram Head is a pretty cool hike. There are some cliffs at the end so some caution would be in order with younger kids. Waterlemon Cay is a good snorkeling spot, but the currents get pretty strong at times.

As a final note, the vast majority of USVI locals are very nice and friendly, but SJ runs on island time. Generally speaking, if you are patient and polite you are much more likely to get a friendly reception.
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