Also, that muffler works well in knocking the noise, but trying to mount up directly, it started smoking, a lot, so I guess it can't handle the heat. thas fine, I have a 6' exhaust hose coming.

Just got the pipe in so I didn't have much time to test; however, in the brief time, it did knock the sound down a decent amount but did seem to not like the back pressure

Might be over-engineering this quiet thing. We have a ventilated plywood box lined with duct/plenum board. I'd spend my time trying to find storage for 5 small insulated panels than continue down the muffler path. Think something like this:

WhoopRAB said:

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Reading up on generator quiet sheds.

One claimed 300 sq in of air inflow vent is needed for every gallon of gas or oil burned per hour. Another stated that exhaust temps are 1000 degrees.

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This guy is in the Houston area and has a few update videos since this one, including one after the ice storm in February where he actually had to use it. He even has the same generator many on here have or are wanting.

My generator stays in a 8'x 8' shed I made specifically for the generator (and storage). It has 4 large vents total in the front and sides and the exhaust blows directly into a squirrel fan mounted on the back wall. I can shut the door to the shed and it significantly cuts down the noise.

Unlike most on here, this is not a semi-permanent installation. I have a cement patio that effectively splits my backyard into two, one side with the nat gas, the other with the breaker. So I have a pad and cover to store, and then will wheel it to where the last picture shows, about equi-distant to either gas or breaker. I really don't want to bust cement or bore under dodging the centerpoint gas line and sprinklers. All this makes me kind of want to change my mind though.

I just am confused why it seems the generator is choking on exhaust back pressure, I have seen other reviews where this has been done on similar units. For reference the exhaust hose is a 1-1/2" x 6' exhaust hose (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027J9O0O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) and Walker muffler (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AX9R8W?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details). Its a 713cc engine, and several others use on up to 2000 cc.

Sorry if this has been answered but how do you determine what interlock kit you need? I have a pretty new GE PowerMark Gold panel.

The main disconnect is on the bottom. Above the disconnect are two columns of breakers: Even numbers on the left. Odd on the right. All circuits are turned on/off by flipping left/right.

I wanna say I need this one but I'm not 100% sure. GE interlock


tia

+1 on above. Otherwise you just need make and model of oane box and find corresponding interlock, likely from the manufacturer

Thanks

Wodanaz said:

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Might be over-engineering this quiet thing. We have a ventilated plywood box lined with duct/plenum board. I'd spend my time trying to find storage for 5 small insulated panels than continue down the muffler path. Think something like this:

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How to start a fire and ruin a generator motor 101.

Showing the new hardware so the natgas regulator stands off properly and you can see the tuning screw inverted

Pretty well the end of my journey:
-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027J9O0O/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_00QJE42APW63KW0JM4PW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AX9R8W/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_Y85CY93M5KVPBZWPCMMW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So to connect them, you want the 1-5/8" coupler:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015KX8NU/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_H5JWAM81WRA9952ZYEZ7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If anyone gets to this point and figures out the back pressure, I'd thoroughly appreciate it

Quote from Southern Electric to install cutout came in as predicted in this thread, so I'll hire Jim.

Next up is selling old generator and buying a westinghouse. I'll get that listed this weekend.

Has anyone had experience with Firman generators?
They

Firman Power Equipment
FIRMAN Power Equipment provides Power on Demand. Whether you are powering all of the fun stuff at your campsite or while tailgating, or keeping the lights on during a power outage at your home, you can trust your FIRMAN Generator to get the job done. Our skilled technicians located in Phoenix, AZ are available during regular business hours 7 days a week to provide the support you need when you need it, and because we build every FIRMAN generator you can rest assured that our legendary FIRMAN three-year warranty is iron-clad. As one of the world's largest manufacturers of portable generators we know what it takes to make an industry leading generator. Our FIRMAN portable generators feature longer run-times, larger fuel tanks, and legendary service. To learn more about FIRMAN Power Equipment visit our about page.

Follow up on the muffler: it works fine and knocks down db 10-12, via phone app fwiw. It does take the generator a bit longer to get up to speed, but once there, works just fine.

Yes, surprised me how low it was. I was expecting to have to turn things off. My A/C is right around 5500W starting and only 2000W to run. I have a gas water heater, stove, and dryer so that helps a ton.

I honestly thought my fridge and 3 freezers would draw more. I did try to run my washing machine and that caused a few issues but I don't think I'll plan on doing laundry at the same time the ac is running.

With everything running I was averaging 3500-4500W and a .7gal/hr burn rate which isn't too bad considering my A/C won't be running 24/7 usually.

Nice.

Did you ever get the conversion to work without having to manually prime the gas?

Sure did. In my case, I had to back out the "regulator" screw on the top, even then it was starved. So I inverted it to get the "cone" out of the gas path and put the flat/screw head side in. I tried to find a plug instead of the screw but it's a weird size to find, and this worked. FYI, it takes 2-3 starts for it to turn over.

Thanks. I saw where you inverted but missed that it worked.

Hoping to get this set up with the ST switch eventually for my freezers when out of town.

Sasappis said:

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How are you measuring the draw?

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I used a fluke clamp meter to measure the inrush amps of the A/C compressor before and after the soft start and confirmed the rest by running the circuits one at a time and recording their draw on the Honda app.

I'm interested in hearing about your ST switch when you get there, if you don't mind. I haven't looked into it very much

Microair easy starts not available till the 22nd. I'm def behind the curve, but the generator cutout is installed tomorrow, I need to sell my jobsite generator and now buy a new one. Hopefully all this will be done by mid-july.

Going to look into those easy starts. Seems like a no brainer.

Had my hvac company install one of these when they were out doing our spring checkup a couple of weeks ago.

https://amradmanufacturing.com/products/turbo-easy-start-5/

Took the starting amps on my 5 ton outside unit from 28 amps down to 13 (same as run amps).

Power got knocked out for about an hour the other night so I finally got to test out my setup. My 10kw Pulsar generator was able to power my house and run central hvac. Wife was happy so that's a win in my books.

I am checking on that right now.
Thank you for posting that.

I have a hard start similar to (https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Durable-CSR-U1-Compressor-Capacitor/dp/B07X463KD1/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=hard+start&qid=1624033262&sr=8-16). My 4 ton meter reading was 14A at start and 11A running. This is a new(er) unit, sub 4 years old and hard start added within a week of install.

Follow up from my previous posts:

Today I successfully tested backfeeding into my dryer plug and powering whole home. I borrowed a neighbor's 8750 peak/ 5500 running watt generac open frame generator. Made my own cord from a 4 prong 220v , 30amp. Cut the female off and wired in a 4 prong dryer male. A/C notes are below. I turned on all my breakers which included 2 freezers and a fridge. Total running watts was 4800. Peak watts on a/c start up was 9,000 & 7,000 but my amp meter is not Fluke so who knows. I will be buying the predator 9500, but I'm a little pissed they just raised the price from $1,700 to $2k

Previous post:
I installed the micro-air soft start myself in less than an hour today. I have a single Carrier 5 ton (60,000 btu). Testing inrush amps before was 139 amps (33,000 watts) on a cheap amp meter. After install it's at 45 in rush amps (11,000 watts) on the bluetooth app. I mounted it right on the outside of the unit.

https://www.microair.net/products/easystart-368-6-ton-soft-start-motor-starter-for-115-and-230v-ac-motors?variant=29181662283

I would buy a good clamp amp meter first. I found that a cheap one will miss peak amps and not give a consistent reading. Open up you a/c & familiarize yourself with the components. Test peak amps & running amps a few times on the run wire. It's the thick one on the contactor labeled 23. Buy a few electrical crimp connectors/terminals if you don't have them (flat quick connect, ring & fork). I used the youtube video link & the two manuals below and it helped a lot. After watching & reading a few times I was confident to do it myself.

To install the micro-air has 4 wires:
-orange wire plugs into an open slot on the Herm terminal on the run capacitor
-black wire is added to the contactor labeled 21
-remove the run wire & cut the terminal. Splice with crimp connector with the brown wire
-white wire goes back in place of the run wire

I'm no electrician so my terminology may be off. Before install, be sure to flip the breakers & remove the a/c service disconnect before touching wires! Also test voltage just to make sure you don't get zapped.