I've been poking around for some resources to help me design and build a deck for my cabin, and so far I've basically come up with two categories of info:

• Municipal standard drawings that my gut tells me are really over-engineered; and
• "Deck designers" that are tied to services that will build it for you

I've reviewed deck joist span tables and I *think* I have enough framing knowledge to build something that will work, but I'd rather be correct and I've never built a deck from scratch on my own.

I'm building two decks that will be 5' wide and 16' long. Based on span tables I would think I should be able to make a box with 2x6 joists running either direction attached to 4x4 piers on blocks without a need for additional 4x6 beams.

Any info y'all can throw my way is appreciated.

2x6s on a 5 ft span at 16" centers
10 lb/sf dead load (includes 1x6 deck boards)
Using #2 big box pine it will safely hold a 120 lb/sf live load (that's a lot) using a very conservative L/180 deflection limit (L/240 or L/360 are more standard for decks)

2x6 on the long edge is the limiter. I'd recommend putting another post in the middle so you have 2x 8' spans. That is a long run for 2x6s with live load, you'll experience noticeable deflection

Tango.Mike said:

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2x6s on a 5 ft span at 16" centers
10 lb/sf dead load (includes 1x6 deck boards)
Using #2 big box pine it will safely hold a 120 lb/sf live load (that's a lot) using a very conservative L/180 deflection limit (L/240 or L/360 are more standard for decks)

2x6 on the long edge is the limiter. I'd recommend putting another post in the middle so you have 2x 8' spans. That is a long run for 2x6s with live load, you'll experience noticeable deflection

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That is what I would be inclined to do.

So this is a lot simpler than I'm making it out to be and I should stop overthinking it?

You'll be fine, your cabin is harder math than a deck. Simpson Strong-Tie hangars are going to be overkill for your span, but they are easier to install if you're working alone (vice trying to hold the boards flush with one hand while putting the screws in one handed).

For a light use deck, assuming this is at your cabin, you don't even need hangars on the corner posts, just set them inside and screw to the apron to the outside

Better to have many deep piers when lumber decays over time & extreme weather vs HD beams ... converse to smart interior engieering economy.

Decking will be the biggest backache maintenace nightmare over the years, so choose wisely.

I've done personal experimental decks lasting from the mid-1980's with 2x4s spanning 96" on dbl.joists, 4x4 piers on surface conc.blocks and parties galore on it ... yes, a little "give" in it....
to rock solid public decks 2x6s spanning only 48" on single joists, deep 4x4 piers

You have the formulas, now weigh all the people on it for Live Loads, 360 deflection would be more comforting to strangers
You'll do fine!

Quote:

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Better to have many deep piers when lumber decays over time & extreme weather vs HD beams ... converse to smart interior engieering economy.

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I have to build a floating deck. Poured piers are not permitted. Everything we build has to be 100% removable. This is a general concept drawing of what I plan to do with the piers for the deck. It is not exactly what will be built or true to field conditions.

There's no reason to have poured piers - many or few - for a 5x16 deck

One aspect of my deck that has always annoyed me is that the deck boards are too close together. Because of that, leaves/sticks/dirt accumulate between them and becomes unsightly and seems to accelerate decomposition. Texas Live Oaks are "dirty" and I have a ton of them.

So, that accumulation results in me using an oscillating tool every couple of years to do a cleanup between the boards. Good times.

On my next deck (replacement), I'd like for the boards to be 1/2"+ apart from each other, but probably there's some code that will prevent it.

Caesar4 said:

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One aspect of my deck that has always annoyed me is that the deck boards are too close together. Because of that, leaves/sticks/dirt accumulate between them and becomes unsightly and seems to accelerate decomposition. Texas Live Oaks are "dirty" and I have a ton of them.

So, that accumulation results in me using an oscillating tool every couple of years to do a cleanup between the boards. Good times.

On my next deck (replacement), I'd like for the boards to be 1/2"+ apart from each other, but probably there's some code that will prevent it.

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What is too close together ?

In new pressure treated if you build it with the boards touching it will dry from sun exposure and usually creates a 1/4 to 3/8 gap between boards


Composite on the other hand does not shrink at all.

I AGREE
My backyard 80's experimental deck for kids/family with long deckboard spans began with trash-goes-down-1/2' spacings ... but remember as 2x4/2x6 shrinks so spacings grow even more over decades
for future trash & Dixie Chicken bottle cap alleys below ... my solution to that is ... future replacement deck boards are 2x8, 2x10, 2x12 later on and all's well ... looks cool

Ryan the Temp said:

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Tango.Mike said:

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2x6s on a 5 ft span at 16" centers
10 lb/sf dead load (includes 1x6 deck boards)
Using #2 big box pine it will safely hold a 120 lb/sf live load (that's a lot) using a very conservative L/180 deflection limit (L/240 or L/360 are more standard for decks)

2x6 on the long edge is the limiter. I'd recommend putting another post in the middle so you have 2x 8' spans. That is a long run for 2x6s with live load, you'll experience noticeable deflection

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That is what I would be inclined to do.

So this is a lot simpler than I'm making it out to be and I should stop overthinking it?

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It is simple. I built a deck at my first house way back in 1999. I bought a book by Black & Decker for tips on design, how to lay out the foundation, and supplies needed. And over a couple of weekends I knocked that deck out. I have looked at Google Earth images of that house, which I sold in 2003, and see that the deck is still in place in that yard.