Bozeman / Yellowstone

2,277 Views | 19 Replies | Last: 6 mo ago by Nash12
Cow Pie & Fries
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Ags, enlightenment would be appreciated. I'm class of '85 so do the math on my age.
We have booked our flight to Bozeman & have options on VRBO's. We are going for a week in late August
Wide open on where we should stay & best outings. We are more trail people than fishing…… We are going to get out of the Texas heat….
Thanks
barnacle bob
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What area are your VRBO options? Home base location will drive suggestions. Bozeman to Yellowstone + small hike and back can be a haul.

Pro Sandy
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Bozeman is a great town with lots to do around it. I've hiked up in the Bridgers, the M is easy, Fairy lakes to Sacagawea is a good hike. Hiked to Mystic Lake south of town, but that was winter and we stayed in the ranger cabin there.

Yellowstone, you are close, but it is relative. You're an hour and a half from the north entrance, hour and forty five from West Yellowstone, two and half to three hours to Old Faithful. But if your VRBO is off 89 south of Livingston, your time drops dramatically. Throw in traffic and a bear and your time increases dramatically. Best times for looking for wildlife are sunrise and sunset in the Lamar or Hayden valleys, so plan accordingly. Sunset is after 9pm right now.

Anytime I have day tripped out of Bozeman to the park, we spent most of the day in Mammoth, swam the boiling river.

Last time we were in the Park, my kids favorite thing was the cookout at Roosevelt. Rode the stagecoach out to it. All you can eat steaks!
Cow Pie & Fries
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VRBO is between Livingston & Gardiner….
Boys need all the help I get…
Cow Pie & Fries
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Is it too much to chew to hit the Custer battlefield?
The Chicken Ranch
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Yellowstone is just so big, it's hard to do it all. We always like to stay in the parks. Yes, it is expensive, but you cannot beat the convenience. Plus, beating the crowds is vital in Yellowstone.

We stayed at Canyon Lodge and Old Faithful Inn when we did Yellowstone. Plus two nights in Gardiner when we rafted. I'm not much of a fan of Gardiner. Just not much there.
barnacle bob
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Cow Pie & Fries said:

VRBO is between Livingston & Gardiner….
Boys need all the help I get…


Great, paradise valley area, you cannot mess this up…

How many people in party?
What are you looking to see: geysers, wildlife, mountains?
What length of day hikes are you thinking?
What is your appetite for driving (auto touring) a lot during this week? Or would you rather stay near home base?
Cow Pie & Fries
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We are flexible. Just the wife & I … Not too much travel but we aren't going for a trip to the barber shop either . We like wildlife, moderate hiking ….not there to fish… More into scenery, cool air compared to Texas in August
Scotts Tot
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We frequent Paradise Valley (where your VRBO is), and will be there in July. I'm very familiar with the area if you want really specific recommendations.

You can read all kinds of things on the internet about what to do in Yellowstone. Tip #1 is to hit whatever touristy things you want to do early to beat crowds (geysers, etc.). The most enjoyable part of the park (to me anyway) is the NE corner, which is Lamar Valley. Lamar is home to the large bison herd and is a frequent area for other wildlife sightings. It's also less crowded than other areas. There are also some good hikes in that area. The Slough Creek trail is kind of legendary trip for fishermen, but makes for a nice and scenic hike even if you don't fish. Also if you're over in that area stop in at Roosevelt for a meal.

You'll find that the area you're staying is more scenic than the park, and has awesome opportunities for exploration. Depending on your fitness level, Pine Creek Lake is a gem of a hike up to a glacial lake surrounded by peaks. It makes for an excellent overnight trip for backpackers but can be done as a day hike if you start early and are in good shape. Also Pine Creek Lodge is a cool little spot with a really fun concert venue if y'all are into music. If so I would check their concert schedule. The most iconic property in Paradise Valley is Chico Hot Springs. It is a 100 year old hotel with a big outside pool, and a couple of dining options (upscale, poolside grill, and tavern/bar). Highly recommend checking out Chico…it is an institution in SW Montana. The pool is open to the public for a fee and it's a lot of fun to sit there in the pool with a beer or cocktail and relax and people watch. Your best bet for breakfast in Paradise Valley is the Wild Flour in Emigrant…killer cinnamon rolls and baked goods.

Another must-do is the Beartooth Highway if you're up for a scenic drive. It is beautiful. From Paradise Valley you would probably want to give yourself a whole day. You can either do it as loop (through Livingston and Red Lodge, over the pass and through the park to get back) or just out and back through the park. I would say it rivals any scenic drive in the US.

There are some dining options in the valley and lots in Livingston and Gardiner depending on where exactly in the valley you'll be located.

This is just off the top of my head but feel free to fire back with specific questions.
07ag
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beartooth highway,, if going out and back from in the park, how far 'out' would you suggest?

sorry, don't mean to hijack, but it makes sense imo to gather yellowstone info in one thread

i'll be there in august with a 4 year old,, any tips specific for yellowstone area with a kid?

fly into bozeman, 1 night in livingston, 2 nights canyon village, 2 nights old faithful snow lodge, 1 night big sky village, fly out of bozeman
https://ts.la/eric59704
barnacle bob
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It's a huge area and I would try to break it into sections and then adjust itinerary once you are there and get a feel for place. I am consistently underwhelmed with food options in park, I'd plan on a cooler and brining your own food, picnic along way, multiple spots with great views. Consider buying some portable chairs in Bozeman.

Look at NPS map and you will see park is mostly a figure eight. You will want to hit highlights.

I would plan one day for old faithful and geysers, try and go early or later in day. There is a nice boardwalk system. From your local that will take a full day. On that day knockout all grand prismatic (there is a trail to get to elevation and see from above, I don't know if they've made it an official trail yet, it's been off the books for a while).

I would do another day, get up early and hit breakfast as Rosevelt (it's not bad), then south toward canyon, could do mt washburn hike (if you do there is a trail head as you approach from north, it's up a fire road and I think knocks down some distance. From there do the canyon waterfall look outs and the brink of lower falls, its unique. Head south, do your picnic along river shore, then drive into Haden valley to see some buffalo.

I really like the stretch from canyon through Haden and down around the lake but doing lake and all above is too much to get you back to camp.

You might consider a day to get down and hang out at lake, elephant back is good hike there. Take leisure drive back, cross over from canyon to Norris and back north.

Another option is across Lamar and through beartooth mentioned before, beartooth is pretty epic, you don't have to do it all, but go at least to ridge for views, you can scope it on a map. Or you could go to red lodge and then back to camp via interstate so you don't double back (big day).

I really feel based on what you are looking for you might consider splitting time between Teton and YNP. I feel Tetons have better hiking and mountain views, and YNP has natural wonders, wildlife, expansive valleys.

Look at park/vendor offerings, there is a chuck wagon dinner in Rosevelt, some motor coach tours. I'd consider a coach from north to geysers, let them do driving and parking. Theses are usually most crowded. There are also vintage yellow coaches that are open air and can be fun. Vendor offerings in park fill up fast, I'd book early if anything jumps out.

Would not recommend night driving in park too much, a lot of wild life.

It's bear country, keep that in mind and plan accordingly.

Enjoy, it's hard to mess up.

EMY92
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Food options in Yellowstone are bad, think Levy at a football game quality. I don't know if it was due to being there during covid, but I tried it once.

I did stay in the park, but I brought foot for breakfast and some peanut butter, bread, and fruit for lunches. After the first evening, I left the park for dinner each afternoon. Since I keep weird hours, I was up and going to get to the good animal watching spots well before sunrise. By noon, I was ready for a break, went back to the room, napped, then left the park. I'd eat an early dinner, then head back into the park to visti things in the evening.

The park is mostly empty before 9 am and it empties out at about 3 pm. If you are going to West Yellowstone or Gardiner, the traffic can be bad after 3 PM. A single bison can create a multi-mile long jamb.
Scotts Tot
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07ag said:

beartooth highway,, if going out and back from in the park, how far 'out' would you suggest?

sorry, don't mean to hijack, but it makes sense imo to gather yellowstone info in one thread

i'll be there in august with a 4 year old,, any tips specific for yellowstone area with a kid?

fly into bozeman, 1 night in livingston, 2 nights canyon village, 2 nights old faithful snow lodge, 1 night big sky village, fly out of bozeman

If you're trying to limit drive time (which is clear with a 4 year old in tow), I would probably go just beyond the pass and turn around before you start switchbacking down the Red Lodge side. I think the coolest parts of the drive are from the park up through the pass anyway. The views are also spectacular on the Red Lodge side, but if you're trying to cut it short that's what I would do.

As far as specific recommendations with a 4 year old, the main thing is just to not try to do too much on any given day. You've already done great to break your trip into multiple lodgings within the park. Be conservative with how much you think you will do or see. Driving in Yellowstone can be really cumbersome because it can be slow going, there can be bad traffic, and you're covering lots of distance. Having spent a lot of time in that area with little kids myself, things can get miserable when you've already logged a few hours of car time and you pull up to a bridge under construction and they're only letting one lane pass and it takes a half hour to get by while you sit there stuck with screaming rambunctious kids in the back seat (if this story sounds really specific, there's a reason!). Construction projects and road status are listed on the park website. Check that before you plan your days.
07ag
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Scotts Tot said:

07ag said:

beartooth highway,, if going out and back from in the park, how far 'out' would you suggest?

sorry, don't mean to hijack, but it makes sense imo to gather yellowstone info in one thread

i'll be there in august with a 4 year old,, any tips specific for yellowstone area with a kid?

fly into bozeman, 1 night in livingston, 2 nights canyon village, 2 nights old faithful snow lodge, 1 night big sky village, fly out of bozeman

If you're trying to limit drive time (which is clear with a 4 year old in tow), I would probably go just beyond the pass and turn around before you start switchbacking down the Red Lodge side. I think the coolest parts of the drive are from the park up through the pass anyway. The views are also spectacular on the Red Lodge side, but if you're trying to cut it short that's what I would do.

As far as specific recommendations with a 4 year old, the main thing is just to not try to do too much on any given day. You've already done great to break your trip into multiple lodgings within the park. Be conservative with how much you think you will do or see. Driving in Yellowstone can be really cumbersome because it can be slow going, there can be bad traffic, and you're covering lots of distance. Having spent a lot of time in that area with little kids myself, things can get miserable when you've already logged a few hours of car time and you pull up to a bridge under construction and they're only letting one lane pass and it takes a half hour to get by while you sit there stuck with screaming rambunctious kids in the back seat (if this story sounds really specific, there's a reason!). Construction projects and road status are listed on the park website. Check that before you plan your days.
thanks! when you say just beyond the pass, is that what is labeled on google maps as beartooth pass vista? https://maps.app.goo.gl/HK4MV7nyztLXjXbz8
https://ts.la/eric59704
Scotts Tot
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I might go as far as the Rock Creek vista and turn around there.
NColoradoAG
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Look into a guided trip with Yellowstone Wild. Well worth the money IMO. We had a great day on our trip and they offer all kinds of different experiences. They leave from Gardiner so it'll be an early morning but not too bad.

The best part for me was being able to spend a whole day in the park and not have to be the driver. Driving in Yellowstone is stressful and you feel like you're missing out not being able to just look out the window.
McNasty
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https://guidealong.com/tour/yellowstone-national-park/

Download this app (free) and spring for the Yellowstone tour (at least). You get an entertaining and informative tour guide for the whole park for $20. We enjoyed the Tetons / Yellowstone tour so much, we bought tours in several other places.
barnacle bob
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GeyserTimes is also a good app for timing of the geyser basin. It shows the time projections and other info to help you be strategic.
HollywoodBQ
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Cow Pie & Fries said:

Is it too much to chew to hit the Custer battlefield?
I drove the stretch of highway from Bozeman to Crow Agency last August.
It's about 3 hours of average roads and average terrain. It's not as scenic as going from Bozeman to Butte.

If you do want to go to Butte, it's kind of a neat town. The downtown area looks like it was booming in the late 1800s to early 1900s and still has a lot of the buildings from that era.

Just to put something on the map in case you want to try it, we ate dinner at Sparky's Garage which had a nice scenic view. The place we wanted to eat was closed for some sort of corporate event - Metals Sports Bar & Grill.
https://www.sparkysrestaurant.com/
https://www.metalssportsbarandgrill.com/
Nash12
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If you are into trails/hiking and scenery, the Grand Tetons are absolutely worth the trip. Just got back from spending a few days at each park. I personally found the trails at GTNP to be better hikes and more scenic than Yellowstone's. YNP was more crowded, especially at the tourist spots as others have mentioned.

The parks are connected (separate entry for both) but the main roads form a loop. If you really wanted to, you could make a full day trip out of GTNP and hit most of the scenic spots with a couple of short hikes. Happy to share an itinerary if interested
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