Big Bend and Marfa with kids for Spring Break

3,460 Views | 30 Replies | Last: 10 mo ago by MAS444
MAS444
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Heading to Marfa and Big Bend/Terlingua for Spring Break next week and was hoping to get some tips/recs. I've been before - but it's been a while and before kids (much easier to play things by ear). We're staying in Marfa for 3 nights and Terlingua for 2. I really wish this was reversed - but that's out of my control. Kids are 10.

In Marfa, we're doing the "Star Party" at McDonalds Observatory one night. I also want to go see the Marfa Lights one night - I think the kids would think that's cool (I did when I saw them previously). I thought we'd go to Fort Davis one day for a few hours. Other than that, just hanging out in/around Marfa - and open to other suggestions. I don't think we want to drive to Big Bend while we're staying in Marfa just due to the distance/time.

Then leave for Marfa and head to Terlingua/Big Bend - I thought we'd leave Marfa pretty early and go straight to the park to do one of the better, moderate length hikes. Maybe Lost Mine Trail or Window Trail? Then not sure what to do for lunch and/or the rest of afternoon other than eventually checking into our place (want to have time to hang out some there as well).

Next morning doing a half day float trip. Woulld we have time to do the Santa Elena Canyon hike in afternoon? Really want to do that if possible. Meeting up with another family Friday night around Terlingua - restaurant recs (I know Starlight Theatre is popular but don't know how much of a **** show it'll be Friday night for a group)? We could grill at our place too if that's going to be easier.

Is everything going to be super crowded? Any chance of the park getting full, problems parking, etc? Any decent places for groceries and/or packed lunches, etc? Is the lodge/restaurant place in the park going to be crazy for lunch/food? I'm just a little unsure of logistics and timing - especially once in/around Big Bend as I know there is lots of driving involved (and need to make sure we time/access food right so kids don't lose it).

I'd like to do one of the hikes in the state park too - but not sure if that's going to be too difficult due to distance/timing.

Any other recs for restaurants, hikes, excursions, etc,?
jja79
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I grew up on the road into the main gate of Big Bend but we never went into the park so I've got nothing for you. It's big and vast and beautiful. Sounds like you've thought this out and have a plan so I'm sure it's going to be great. You know this from Colorado but take something warmer than you think you might need. That may never get used but after sundown in the desert can really get cold. Enjoy.
maverick12
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The border crossing and riding donkeys to Boquillas is cool and unique. There are a few restaurants with decent margaritas and lots of small shops there.

Starlight Theatre has always been pretty crowded when we've been, but we've never waited a stupid amount of time. There are also a few things to do while you wait (a shop, an old cemetery and a small jail cell).

Maybe to far, but Lajitas General Store has really good sandwiches and breakfast stuff. The restaurant at the resort is also pretty decent.
MAS444
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Only been once - for about a week - but it's easily one of my favorite parts of Texas.
AggieOO
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Yes, its going to be crowded. Get to the park as early as humanly possible. It'll be 1 in 1 out going up to the chisos basin.

As for the ft davis area, check out CDRI. There are short hikes, lots of flora and potentially fauna. Its lesser known, so it likely won't be very busy.

If you want to into starlight, be there waiting when it opens. there will already be a bunch of people lining up who have been hanging out.

the trail at santa elena can be all of 5 mins or longer. depends on how far you want to hike in. I'm going to assume due to the drought that terlingua creek is dry, so you should be able to hike across and go on that trail vs just doing the short hike from the parking lot to the river. Parking will fill up here too.
AggieOO
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maverick12 said:

The border crossing and riding donkeys to Boquillas is cool and unique. There are a few restaurants with decent margaritas and lots of small shops there.
there are two restaurants. one bar. the only shop i'm aware of is the one connected to Jose Falcon's (one of the restaurants), but there will be kids coming up trying to sell you stuff. Its definitely worth a visit but unless you are hiring a guide to take you to some of the area things to look at (crystal cave, mexican hot springs, casa de piedra, etc), you will be sitting at one of the restaurants or at Park Bar. Not a lot to do other than relax, but its 100% worth it.
MAS444
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Thanks for the advice
Quote:

It'll be 1 in 1 out going up to the chisos basin.
Damn - that sucks. When you say up to the Chisos Basin - do you mean everything in that area, including the nearby trailheads (Lost Mine and The WIndow)? Or just the main area where the campground, bathrooms and lodge are? Any other recs for similar hikes in another area that may be less crowded?

Naveronski
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Agree, but worth noting that both restaurants also serve alcohol, so it's definitely not a dry town.
AggieOO
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MAS444 said:

Thanks for the advice
Quote:

It'll be 1 in 1 out going up to the chisos basin.
Damn - that sucks. When you say up to the Chisos Basin - do you mean everything in that area, including the nearby trailheads (Lost Mine and The WIndow)? Or just the main area where the campground, bathrooms and lodge are? Any other recs for similar hikes in another area that may be less crowded?


there will be a line of cars at the bottom of the road to get into the chisos. You will not even be able to drive up there. So yes, you will not be able to access anything. Get there early and you'll be able to drive up into the basin without issue, most likely.

"Any other recs for similar hikes in another area that may be less crowded?"

depends on the weather. How long of a hike and do you have a high clearance vehicle? If its not hot, there's all kinds of options, but spring break is the busiest time of year. I went once during spring break. Never again, unless I'm going somewhere in the park super remote....but that's just me. Don't get me wrong, you can 100% still have an enjoyable time, but just be prepared for crowds. The busiest times of the year are still a drop in the bucket compared to places like Yosemite and Yellowstone, but Big Bend also doesn't have the same resources as the busiest parks.
NoahAg
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The star party is awesome.

Skip the window trail and do lost mine.

Best bet for starlight theater is to get there at 4:30 to check in and be seated at 5. Grab a beer from the general store. Walk around the ghost town and enjoy chilling until you get a table.

It could be really hot. It could be freezing. Prepare for both.

Everyone should experience Boquillas. Bring passports.

Hot springs are worth a visit.

So many options for such a short time.
Ogre09
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Go swim at Balmorhea.

Go to Davis Mountains SP and hike over the mountain to the old fort.

Eat some BBQ at the place in Terlingua.

Paddle down the river with a guide (Far Flung Adventures).

In the park outside Chisos Basin: Ernst Tinaja hike (little bit of a rough drive, need high clearance, stock pickup or most SUVs would be fine), Balanced Rock (dirt road drive, but I've seen minivans and sedans do it), Rio Grande Village nature trail, and Sta Elena Canyon (paved roads to the last 2).
Aggie87
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Try some of the hikes in Big Bend Ranch State Park, adjacent to BB Nat'l Park.

Less crowded and some stunning views.
MAS444
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Yeah I'd like to do that and mentioned that above - but aren't those quite a bit further from Marfa or Terlingua?
AggieOO
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not sure if you will be in the Basin in the evening (or perhaps early morning), but here's a pro tip. Hike down the window trail until you have a good view of the water treatment plant. Post up and watch for a while. There's high likelihood of seeing Bears down there. They will typically be on the south side just outside the fence or in that area. There's water down there so they show up regularly. From the window trail, you are far enough away that the vast majority of people won't even notice the bears down there. But if you are looking for them, you'll see them if they are there.




Circle is where they will likely be. The other two areas are where to stop and look down.
AggieOO
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MAS444 said:

Yeah I'd like to do that and mentioned that above - but aren't those quite a bit further from Marfa or Terlingua?
parts of the state park are actually closer to Terlingua than the national park. Its not a bad drive over to Closed Canyon. I'd suggest that one. Its past Lajitas. Once you get to the drop offs, you can turn around. I wouldn't go much past the first one.
MAS444
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Appreciate that!

Follow up question on the crowd issue - how early is early enough for the Chisos Basin? Get to the park at 8am good enough??
AggieOO
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Also, while in Marfa, if you want a quick break, drive over to Alpine and hike to the desk. Its a great hike to do with kids. My 6 year old hiked the whole thing when she was 3. You'll got through Alpine on the way to the park anyway.
AggieOO
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MAS444 said:

Appreciate that!

Follow up question on the crowd issue - how early is early enough for the Chisos Basin? Get to the park at 8am good enough??
you'll *probably* be ok at 8a. obviously no guarantees.

The other option is to try and hit it in the evening after people start heading back to wherever they are staying. Just have a plan B and C in case you get somewhere and parking is full.

For one backup plan, Grapevine Hills/Balance rock is a good hike, not terribly far from the Basin. It'll be busy, but you should be able to fine somewhere to park along the road even if the lot is full.
MAS444
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Yep - that was tentatively on the list too! Thanks for the rec!

And thanks again for the additional info!
AggieOO
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NP. I'll try to remember to check back occasionally. I've been out to the area more times than I can remember. Its slowed down in recent years b/c of having kids, but I use to go out there 5-6 times a year for a long time. I've been all over the region many, many times. So if other questions pop up, ask away! Plenty of other great suggestions from other folks on here too!
Aggie87
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MAS444 said:

Yeah I'd like to do that and mentioned that above - but aren't those quite a bit further from Marfa or Terlingua?
The eastern entrance to BB Ranch State Park is the Barton Warnock Visitor Center.

Google says from Terlingua to Barton Warnock is 13 miles (it's on the way to Lajitas).
NoahAg
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If you're looking for a great hike that won't be crowded you should check out Cattail Falls. It's not on park maps anymore because they're trying to protect the falls. But it's still a very accessible trail and with some googling you can find directions to the trailhead.
AggieOO
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NoahAg said:

If you're looking for a great hike that won't be crowded you should check out Cattail Falls. It's not on park maps anymore because they're trying to protect the falls. But it's still a very accessible trail and with some googling you can find directions to the trailhead.
warning with this one. The road was officially closed that takes you closer to the trailhead. I have been in the park when the gate has been opened, but wouldn't surprise me if its closed during spring break due to the amount of people in the park. You can still get there even if the gate is closed, but it adds a little over 3 miles of exposed hiking on that road (a little over 1.5 miles each way). turns a ~2.5 mile hike into a 5.5 mile hike.
NoahAg
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Ahh I didn't know that. It's been a few years. It was a pretty easy hike for a "hidden" trail.
AggieOO
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it go to the point where tour busses full of people were driving down that road, so they closed it to limit the number of people. That said, it was open in dec of '23 when i was there. Last memorial day weekend, we drove by and it was closed. I don't know that there is any official policy since its an unmarked road, but my suspicion is they close the road during busy times. I've hiked it down and back from the basin a couple times, but that's a tough climb back up.
Naveronski
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It was open during Christmas/NYE.
aglaohfour
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AggieOO said:

maverick12 said:

The border crossing and riding donkeys to Boquillas is cool and unique. There are a few restaurants with decent margaritas and lots of small shops there.
there are two restaurants. one bar. the only shop i'm aware of is the one connected to Jose Falcon's (one of the restaurants), but there will be kids coming up trying to sell you stuff. Its definitely worth a visit but unless you are hiring a guide to take you to some of the area things to look at (crystal cave, mexican hot springs, casa de piedra, etc), you will be sitting at one of the restaurants or at Park Bar. Not a lot to do other than relax, but its 100% worth it.


We used to do this with my Granddaddy every year! He'd have someone row us across the river in a canoe and take us up on donkeys. Is this still a thing you can do? I haven't been since I was maybe 16, but I'd assumed that it wasn't possible to cross like that anymore.
The Chicken Ranch
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Definitely take your passports and go to Boquillas. My daughter was 7 when we did it and she still talks about how much fun it was. Your guide will "take" you to his bar of choice and make sure they take care of you. Let him do this and tip him!

My wife's donkey on the ride back had a bell. Because they said the donkey was loco and went where she wanted to do. We all had fun with that one!
AggieOO
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aglaohfour said:

AggieOO said:

maverick12 said:

The border crossing and riding donkeys to Boquillas is cool and unique. There are a few restaurants with decent margaritas and lots of small shops there.
there are two restaurants. one bar. the only shop i'm aware of is the one connected to Jose Falcon's (one of the restaurants), but there will be kids coming up trying to sell you stuff. Its definitely worth a visit but unless you are hiring a guide to take you to some of the area things to look at (crystal cave, mexican hot springs, casa de piedra, etc), you will be sitting at one of the restaurants or at Park Bar. Not a lot to do other than relax, but its 100% worth it.


We used to do this with my Granddaddy every year! He'd have someone row us across the river in a canoe and take us up on donkeys. Is this still a thing you can do? I haven't been since I was maybe 16, but I'd assumed that it wasn't possible to cross like that anymore.
Yep, absolutely. Just have to have passports now. Its a must.
AgRyan04
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Just want to make sure you're aware, the McDonald's Observatory is in Fort Davis, not Marfa. It sounded like you have the Stars Party and visiting Fort Davis on separate days.

Food options in Fort Davis are pretty slim. Blue Mountain Grill in Fort Davis is our go to, food is very good....but double check the days/times they're open....it's a weird schedule and we've been caught off guard a couple of times. There is also a small deli in Stone Village Market if you just need lunch - great roast beef sandwiches.

In regards to kayaking/canoeing the Rio Grande in Big Bend, double check with your outfitter that the river is high enough for trips to run. That can be a problem

Bring lots of water....and lots of patience. Try to keep in mind that these are tiny towns that are going to be well beyond what their normal capacity of service provides.
MAS444
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Quote:

Just want to make sure you're aware, the McDonald's Observatory is in Fort Davis, not Marfa. It sounded like you have the Stars Party and visiting Fort Davis on separate days.
Yes - I understood where it is. The star party does not start til 8:45 - so did not want to hang out in Fort Davis for several hours before then (the Fort closes at 5). Nothing else to do there that I know of. So did Ft. Davis one morning (easy drive from Marfa) and the star party at McDonald's another night. Both were great. I appreciate the input.

In other news, we had to leave Terlingua one night early due to bad wind storms. We stayed in one of the Bascamp "bubbles", which is basically just a fancy tent. We were in the one that was basically almost at the top of Cigar Mountain and the wind gusts were up to 50MPH+ (some say much higher) Thursday night. My wife and kids were freaking out, justifiably so...and did not want to stay another night with strong winds projected again last night. The Bascamp folks basically admitted the bubbles were not very safe in high winds and offered everyone refunds. The place was incredible, though...you just don't want to be up there in a tent in bad weather.

Overall, it was a great trip and I appreciate everyone's input.
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